24 for 2024

Not the best year ever, but geez the food was good.

Perfect! iCloud has suggested an upgrade to my storage plan. It’s either that or I start deleting. As you can probably guess my phone stores hundreds of pics of plates of food and they are not just there because I like to remember a good time. In my gig, it’s useful to have a visual reference in your toolbox. So after quite a few hours of iCloud housekeeping I’ve emerged with so many memories of tastes and intense flavours, clever cooking and wonderful hospitality that I feel the need to share.

In no particular order here are 24 of my most memorable tastes of 2024 and a few words on what makes them stick.

Hungry already for 2025!

FISH by Vaughan Mabee - Amisfield.
The most perfect piece of spearfished butterfish meticulously topped with a shimmering shoal of whitebait, swimming in a deliciously rich and yet super-light beurre blanc. At Amisfield be prepared to face the provenance of your food and be prepared for high trickery from Aotearoa’s most innovative chef. You may finish with a huhu grub that you coax from its hole in a branch and find that it tastes strangely like peanut butter and white chocolate.

COOKIES & ICE CREAM by Helen Turnbull - 50-50.
Tamarillo ice cream rolled in black lime & sesame and sandwiched between gochujang caramel cookies, tamarillo mousse and a tamarillo & chrystalised ginger chocolate truffle sounded like tamarillo overload but those clever cookies brought it all home with their perfect crispy/chewy ratio and a chilli kick that slowly rises to lead a spectacular dance. Helen can be rightly proud of all that they accomplish every night in this unique little spot within the sleepy seaside location of Paraparaumu Beach.

TAMALES by Max Gordy - Graze.
A seat at the counter is the best seat in the house, where you will watch Max Gordy and his team deliver big from their tiny workspace. From a stunning little blackboard menu of sharing dishes these pāua tamales were irresistible. Wrapped in nasturtium leaves and served with a superb mole that Max bases on a classic Mayan sikil (tomato) pak (pumpkin seed) recipe. Although he abandons the toms when not in season. So much respect for the food here, fresh, sustainably sourced and embracing a host of impressive growers and producers doing really good things.

NOODLES - Giulio Sturla, Mapu.
Giulio popped up at Kingi cooking with Tom Hishon for one glorious night in August and brought with him his magical green banana noodles topped with southern lobster and wild onions in a stunningly clear, deep, onion water. Yes, that’s right, banana noodles. At Mapu Giulio is doing all the important stuff that many others don’t.
We must never EVER stand still.

CRUDO by Friedrich Beloussow, Rata.
There is great attention to detail at this iconic Queenstown restaurant and there was nowhere to hide in this beautifully executed and delicate dish of farmed Ruakākā kingfish, paired with pickled persimmon, chives and a seriously masterful dashi. Friedrich is creating refined and thoughtful dining inspired by local flavours, delivered with relaxed Kiwi flair.

PAVLOVA by James Stapely - Kika.
We often hear the words contemporary Kiwi cuisine and yet rarely is this description nailed as well as it is at Kika with no better dish to demonstrate this than their Otago cherry and chocolate pavlova. A masterful refresh of a culinary icon with its sharp Otago cherries and whipped yoghurt cream that’s a perfect balance to the smack-in-the-face sweetness of a classic pav. Chocolate crémeux and cherry purée add the wow factor and with freeze-dried cherries, James brings that little extra magic.

PUDDING by Nikita Kuschke - Rita.
Nikita’s steamed dessert pudding was the star on a chilly Wellington eve. Tart, bitter Seville mandarins, soft fluffy pudding with a caramelised peak in a bath of cold rich custardy goodness. Insanely good. Rita is super-slick. It’s a small room with an ever-changing set-menu delivered by a team of absolute pros.

TOAST by Jo Pearson - Alma.
It had been excruciating watching the jamon, cerveza, pan con tomate, Albariño… on the husbands feed during his trip home. Just excruciating. And then one bite of Jo’s roasted tomato and anchovy tostada and my life was back in perspective. So much delicious on the Alma menu, I had my own little trip to Spain that afternoon and it was espectacular!

ARTICHOKES by Jack Cashmore - The Chef’s Table, Blue Duck Station.
Jack’s heavenly treatment of Jerusalem Artichokes from Rosemary’s onsite garden, have been baked ‘en Papa’ in their grey clay like Papa rock with hay and herbs and served with a sauce of reduced artichoke juice and whey, lightly picked roses and white truffle from Whanganui. A seat at this glorious table on top of a remote mountain in Ruapehu should be on your bucket list.

SNACKS by Nick Honeyman, Zennon Wijlens and Ron McKinlay - Paris Butter.
There is no beating a good chefs snack. And, in February the snack game was extremely high at this collaboration across Paris Butter/NZ, Le Petit Léon/France and Canoe/Canada. Sitting at the table it struck me just how much time and detail goes into making these tiny, memorable sips and bites. A testament to each chefs skill and knowledge. These beauties offered a nod to individual influences and memories, and would have taken many hours, to create before consumed – but definitely not forgotten – within seconds.

BROCCOLI by Georgia van Prehn - Mr Morris.
One of my most memorable snacks in 24 was this clever puffed buckwheat cracker loaded with a broccoli purée made from the head, broccoli stems marinated in lemon and parsley and topped with pickled mustard seeds. Interestingly, Georgia says they were their least ordered item, perhaps because they sound boring. I can tell you they were not boring. They were superb. A fresh, vibrant, zingy combo of crunchy, creamy, citrusy and a perfect example of why Georgia is one to watch…

PIE by Karl Martin-Boulton - The Green
Again a single chefs snack. A tiny mushroom, miso and yeast pie. A flavour bomb, gone in an instant and so delicious I wished I hadn’t eaten it in one bite. Paired with a beautiful Esses Dame Syme 2014 Vintage Brut Cuvee this, for me, was perfection. The interaction between chef and guests in this intimate 8-seater setting is impressive. You will leave with a greater understanding of the flavours of the Waikato region and why a small restaurant like this is a very good thing to support.

WINGS by Jason Kim - Tokki
So much to love about Jason’s Korean hot-spot in Milford. Especially his crispy chicken wings stuffed with prawns. The tasting menu is the way to go here. Book a seat at the counter and let Jason and the team do their thing. Don’t miss the hwe (raw fish) bathed in a Korean mustard with minari (Korean watercress), the fish spankingly fresh, sweet and still front and centre despite the deliciously tangy sauce; and the crispy eggplant, oh, and the sot bap and the flat noodles. It’s all super-good.

DESSERT by Callum Liddicoat - Onemata.
Our New Zealand pastry chef of the year is always changing his offering so you may or may not be able to try this little number that wowed me back in July. It’s his take on chocolate, fruit and nuts. Soft chocolate on a chocolate sable, topped with pecan whipped ganache, macerated dates and prunes in armagnac, green tea and oabika (cocoa fruit juice concentrate made from the white pulp that protects beans in the cocoa pod) Beautiful to look at and pure joy to eat.

GALETTE by Regnar Christensen - Blackbarn Bistro.
Now THIS was a thing of beauty, a magnificent potato, kombu, black garlic, Parmesan galette. Regnar tells an authentic story of place and season. At the same time, his reinterpretations of the classics and his layering of technique, texture and sometimes unexpected flavours will push you gently toward the edge of your comfort zone, so that you might walk away having learned something new. He’s a chef who gives a great deal of respect to his local growers and producers, and has a fierce belief in the region’s ability to be a premium food bowl.

ALMOST RAW by Ben Bayly - Ahi.
Our American Express restaurant of the year plays a serious game with regard to technique and precision with a food philosophy that shines through every dish. This bigeye tuna, wild garlic and avocado situation on a blue sky day with a perfect view from a window seat at Ahi was a total winner. Spankingly fresh, light yet full of umami. Pure delish and a testament to the dedication from Ben and Mike Shatura to keep the Ahi garden front and centre. Complex simplicity at its best.

MUSSEL by Cory Campbell - The Grove.
My first Horse Mussel from the Coromandel beautifully paired with caviar and the first of the season white asparagus by our chef of the year. Who knew it would taste just like an exquisite scallop? This year Cory has lead The Grove team back to its three-hat status by presenting a menu that is world-class. Sadly, The Grove will close in 2025 with its last service on 1 March. So don’t dilly dally if you want to secure one final taste of this iconic Auckland restaurant.

CRAB by Sid Sahrawat - Anise.
A transformation of the main room at Sid at the French Cafe in early 2024 delivered what just might be the best soft-shell crab ever! Green chilli cashew cream and eggplant kasundi were the star supporters in this dish alongside the best bowl of rice I’d had in a long time cooked in chicken fat and speckled with fresh coriander and crispy chicken skin. Sid, Tommy and team, I’ll remember this tremendous crab forever!

BUNS by Michael Meredith - Metita.
These corned beef buns with lardo and caviar are a spectacularly good time any time. Early in the year we discovered the magnificent long Sunday lunch menu at Metita, Sky City and these were the bomb. This restaurant has gone from strength to strength this year resulting in an outstanding celebration of their first year with guest chef Peter Gordon in December, and, where their gorgeous panipopo was still a crowd-pleaser. I can’t wait to see where Michael and team Metita will take us in 2025.

SAUCE by Fabio Rafael Bernardini - Tempero.
The sauce game is so good at Tempero that I would remain a deliriously happy woman just to have a bowl of each and a big spoon. Oh, and some of their excellent tortillas on the side. However, this acarajé vatapá with okra and palm hearts stole my heart in February. It’s a vegan version of a popular Brazilian street food made from puréed black beans formed into a ball and deep-fried, and it is spectacular. Fabio and co-owner Tiffany Low deliver a vibe that is casual, welcoming and fashionably fun. Don’t walk past Tempero if you are on K’road.

CUSTARD by Fraser McCarthy - Lillius.
This long elegant room with its concrete walls and velvet booths feels sophisticated and welcoming and remains one of my favourite Auckland fit-outs. Passionate hospitality professionals Shannon Vandy & Fraser McCarthy have created an inner-city winner with a menu that changes constantly with the seasons and a delivery that is perfectly paced. This umami-laced seaweed/shellfish custard with its outstanding flavour and pops of texture from the quinoa remains a reference point that I return to again and again.

YAMS by Jack Foster - Cardrona Distillery.
A magical tour of this renowned distillery in August turned into a very special lunch delivered by Jack and his team that delivered BIG from their tiny kitchen. These honey-braised Canterbury yams with Branch Creek honey and Cranky Goat cheese were a bowl of delight. Go visit this clever and passionate team, take the tour and stay for lunch. You will never forget it.

SEAFOOD by Kyle Street - Culprit.
If you have a passion for kai moana, I strongly suggest you go epic and immerse yourself in an incredibly clever taste of the sea at Culprit. You might find an oyster and fennel panna cotta, salmon belly cones in wasabi and avocado creme and local oysters topped with the chef’s granita du jour, or, as in the pic above, you may get a side of crispy fried pasta specially designed for a Sabato/Rustichella lunch. Either way Kyle delivers the most fun you can have when it comes to NZ seafood on a platter and a playlist that sparks great conversations.

SCHNITZEL by Glen File - Guilt.
Heritage tomatoes, fresh basil, crispy tomato schnitzel in a spectacular tomato butter sauce. So good Glen! I first had this dish in late December 2023 and loved it so much that I returned for seconds in Jan 2024. At Gilt you might almost be in Europe but for the definite dedication to New Zealand demonstrated by owners Helen and Josh Emett. We are lucky to have them and this sensational tomato schnity!

Let’s go get ‘em in 2025 Aotearoa!